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The Wollumbin lava flows crashing into the ocean some 23 million years ago created the point breaks where we play in the ocean everyday - all the way up to Burleigh Heads. And for thousands of years it was the place of sheer abundance for local indigenous communities.
So, when we came up recently to create some fresh GoPro stories, we wanted to learn more, pay our respects and connect with the locals who are loving and protecting this place for generations to come.
We'd heard about Juraki, a Fingal based indigenous surf culture movement. I knew the Juraki girls were ripping in the surf, and breaking new ground in shaping their own surfboards. I sent them a DM and was stoked to connect up so quickly and easily. A date was set and I grabbed a spare back up board to pass on to the girls.
We had so much fun in the waves - even in the chopped up, wind affected swell and even though I could only splash around in the water (with my broken wrist still in recovery), we had so much fun! Party waves and giggling in the line-up. The girls are amazing - stoke, skill and endless enthusiasm!
Thank-you Juraki girls, we felt so welcomed by you in one of the most magical of places to celebrate this incredible gift of connection with the ocean - accessible to everyone, any shape or size or age or culture - but with respect and growing awareness.
Warm regards,
Pacha Light
Imagery by Shannon Hayes