Style - 15 Aug 2022

Where the Desert kisses the Sea

Home to endless long lefts with a vast coastal desert and warm tropical waters, the North Coast of Peru is a unique surfing destination and a goofy footers paradise!

Being a photographer, I get to shoot in some amazing places all around the world, but when I got to work with Billabong to shoot local legends Magali Labarthe and Brunella Mesinas, my heart skipped a beat. After all, this coast has carved itself a special place in my heart.

In Peru’s north coast you’ll find an infinite stretch of beautiful beaches bursting with golden sunlight and some world-class waves waiting to be ridden. In fact, there is evidence that the ancient Peruvians already practiced surfing on caballitos de totora (little reed horses) more than 4,000 years ago.

The terrain along the north differs from the south. The ocean meets a clay-like earthy shore, making this coastline so distinctive. They call it “The Coastal Desert”, and for good reason. The rocky formations and cliff-like edges outline the land. They sit against the blue ocean creating a beautiful landscape of shapes and colours, which makes for a truly eccentric beachside experience reminiscent of a Martian landscape.

Whether you are after hollow barrels or gentle point breaks to practice your nose riding skills, the choices for all board shapes and levels are limitless. The year-round swell from different directions and offshore winds means that you’re in for the surf trip of a lifetime.

With our boards thrown in the back, bikinis tied and ready to go, we took off at 6am to hunt our first break.
Picture this, we’re driving along the dirt road of El Ñuro, searching for the hottest peaks to photograph all the while waiting to see the giants of the deep slap their fins on the surface as they breach.

Our next stop was a tranquil beach town called Organos where we enjoyed a quick dip while a lefthander peeled off the reef. Here, everything feels easy. You can spot sea turtles swimming ashore and digging around the fishing docks for some food.

Further along the Pan-American Highway, we got to Mancora where the sun shines all year round. The town's vibes scream from the rooftops, “let’s siesta and then fiesta”. My favourite place to stay here is Las Olas, a hotel surrounded by lush palm trees that steps right onto the sand. Lucky for us, you could check the surf from your bed while sipping your morning coffee. This is the life! Without even a thought, the girls reached for their boards and I began capturing their smiles while they drew lines in the waves, cross-stepping as they high-fived local turtles.

What’s crazy about Mancora is that one minute you’re surfing in a bikini and in just one hour south the water gets so cold you’d need to put on a wetsuit. This drastic change in temperature occurs across just a few kilometres when the Humboldt and El Niño currents intermingle.

After a leg burning surf session with the girls, nothing tastes better than seafood caught fresh from some of the most nutrient-rich waters in the world. The locals have a knack for combining herbs and spices in their dishes. Each bite sends your soul to a different province and your taste buds on a culinary journey. The North offers a wide variety of restaurants where you can taste mouth-watering local dishes. You have never tasted ceviche the way you will here! Top this off with a view of the most spectacular sky lit on fire, your eyes will pop from the rainbow of colours. But hey, that’s just a normal day in Peru.

Despite Peru’s northern sea having one of the most rich and important marine ecosystems in the country, the ecoregion lacks legal protection and faces threats like illegal fishing, industrial pollution, and unmanaged tourism. So how can we help?

When I travel, it’s important for me to take part in the culture and lifestyle of the land. So from one traveller to another, here are a few tips to make your adventure fun, safe and good for the environment!

•Be a conscious traveller! Peru is welcoming and a home to everyone. Alwaysremember to respect the local communities and their environment
•Carry a reusable water bottle, cutlery, and bags where possible
•Keep the commerce and good vibes flowing locally
•Support eco-accommodation and eco-tourism agencies
•Stock up on reef-safe sunscreen and eco-surf wax before you go

Although I’m glad to be welcomed back to my Australian home, this trip has certainly left me longing for my next adventure to the mystical land of endless lefts.
By Ellie Bobbie - Photographer (@elliebobbie)