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Our Spring shoot saw us travel not far from home to the popular holiday destination of Bali, where we had many a days frolicking and shooting in the sunshine and surf, sipping on fresh coconuts and filling our bellies with Nasi Goreng. We caught up with local Billabong team riders Kailani Johnson and Cinta Hansel who took Pacha surfing at some of Bali’s best breaks including Dreamland, Uluwatu and Padang Padang. Read on to get to know the girls and what it’s like to live #aBikiniKindaLife in the island of Bali.
1. How long have you been surfing for, and what made you start?
Kailani: I started surfing at age 6 so it’s been 12 years. My parents told me I was always called to the ocean and water since I was born and during my childhood I spent so many days at the beach. Also, since my dad is a surfer, it was only natural for me to start learning and it’s safe to say I was hooked!
Cinta: I will have been surfing for 10 years in November. What made me start surfing is the fun and all the new friends I make at the beach, the bond I have with the ocean is the best feeling ever. I always have the best day when it’s spent at the beach and I can’t wait for the weekend to do it all again.
2. Do you have a girl gang of surfers that you go with?
Kailani: The girl surfing community in Bali is relatively small, the lineup is usually consisted of guys. Luckily, growing up I would always surf with my sister and we still surf together quite a lot!
Cinta: When I was a little girl I had these groups of girls I would surf and compete with, it was so much fun. But now everyone is doing their own thing so I often hang out at the children’s home (for under-privileged kids) and hangout with them and take them surfing. Especially now during this pandemic while they don’t have school. It’s my favourite part of my day to see them smile and love the ocean as much as I do. And I also try to get the little girls to come surf with me even though they’re still scared, they seem to enjoy being in the water.
3. Did you grow up in Bali?
Kailani: With my mother being Balinese, I was born and raised in Bali and I wouldn’t have had it any other way.
Cinta: Yes! I was born and raised in Bali and I’m grateful because of all the different waves I get to surf all over the island.
4. What’s your favourite part of living in Bali?
Kailani: Though there is so many great things about living in Bali, my favourite would probably the amount of good, consistent waves there are to surf all over the island.
Cinta: Definitely surfing, but also all the different culture you see here. When I go on trips I always miss the food from home, I love spicy Indonesian food! I also love going on adventures, going up the mountain for a hike is fun too.
5. Your favourite surf spot in Bali?
Kailani: With its scenic view, crystal blue water, and long waves, Uluwatu would have to be my favourite surf spot in Bali.
Cinta: My fav would have to be Uluwatu because it breaks from 1 ft and up to 15ft and I love surfing it in all conditions! You are always bound ti get a wave.
6. Where is your dream destination to travel to?
Kailani: I am grateful to have travelled to so many different places already but I really look forward to going to Fiji one day!
Cinta: I’ve been to Oahu and Maui in Hawaii and I’ve also been to J-Bay in South Africa which were both unreal, so my next destination would have to be Fiji. Especially Tavarua island because it’s shaped like a heart which is the meaning of my name (Cinta = love) how’s that!
7. When did you join the Billabong team?
Kailani: I joined the team early 2018, when I was 16 years old.
Cinta: November 2013 was when I first joined the Billabong team, it was the best day of my life.
8. Tell us what a typical day looks like for you?
Kailani: I love to wake up early in the morning and go for a surf session at dawn, usually when it’s most uncrowded. Afterward, I come home and do my stretches/yoga then have a healthy breakfast to start the day. I’m online for a few hours to do some school work and research, then I’ll try to meet up with a friend for lunch. In the late afternoon I’ll try get another surf in or a workout and then end the day off spending time with my family.
Cinta: A typical day for me is waking up either 5am or 9am and planning my day out with my dad including where to surf while we eat breakfast. I would then go to the beach on my motorbike or go to the children’s home and take them surfing. Before Covid hit, I would go to work. Every day is different, sometimes I help dad with work and delivering his custom surfboards to his customers.
9. How has Bali been during the Covid 19 pandemic? Have you enjoyed the down time?
Kailani: For a few weeks all of the beaches were closed and most businesses as well. It’s been pretty tough for a lot of the people here, especially those who rely on tourism for business. However, it’s great that almost all the beaches have opened now. Currently, I am just trying to take advantage of the uncrowded beaches, fun waves, and making the most of the down time in Bali.
Cinta: It’s been okay, I mean business is a little slow for the family but we ar ehanging in there. But if you look at the bright side I get to surf uncrowded beaches all to myself which doesn’t happen often in Bali!
10. What are your plans for the future? Study, surfing, travel?
Kailani: I would say all of the above! At the beginning of the year, since I am on the QS tour, it looked like there was going to be a lot of travelling for competitions up ahead but now every thing isn’t certain. However, until there’s a set schedule and I am able to travel internationally, I’m keeping up on my studies and on the search for uncrowded, perfect waves around Indonesia.
Cinta: I would love to still be able to surf and travel. I just love to travel so much, meeting new people, getting to experience new cultures and learn the history of a place. I am currently studying and majoring in economics…. And I love learning new things, I am just going to go with the flow and see what the future brings!
11. And lastly, tell us what #KnowTheFeeling means to you?
Kailani: What comes to my mind when I hear surfing and ‘knowing the feeling’ is being in a ‘flow state.’ When you’re in the flow, you are completely in the present moment, and in alignment with your fullest potential. It’s the main reason why surfing is so addicting, to be one with the waves, water and nature as a whole, all while in a state of flow.
Cinta: Just the feeling I get being in the ocean every day makes me grateful for my life and being so close to nature makes me happy.
Follow @kailanikj and @cintahansel for more !